I think that it was back in July that we went, regardelss, I got up before the crack of dawn to meet with my colleague and we drove down to Santa Cruz for a surfing lesson.
I personally had an amazing time. It was like going church in a sense, with every one out there in the ocean sitting out about 100 yards all facing west, waiting for the next ridable wave. It was calm, and having been out there only 20 minutes, I could see the draw and have a strong desire to get out there again. Unfortunately, I’ve waited too long and now it’s cold outside. I’ll be heading back in the spring. Maybe one of my girls can come and learn with me too.